New Trends

by Marija Suzic, Director of Development, All Me Cosmetics & Pharmaceuticals

ACTIVE SUBSTANCES IN MODERN ANTI-AGE COSMETIC PRODUCTS

november 2014

The skin, especially facial skin is a complex and sensitive part of the body on which the effects of aging and the environmental influences are extremely visible. Typical signs of aging and skin damage include the formation of wrinkles, dry skin, reduction of luminosity and uneven skin pigmentation. Also, no less important visual effects of aging imply a sense of discomfort and loss of confidence. These are the main reasons why in recent years there is a growing number of researches in the field of prevention of aging and skin damage. The fact is that people want to look younger and healthier. Among the new cosmetic active ingredients and formulations of products on the market, a few deserve special attention because of its proven efficacy and safety.

BAKUHIOL

Bakuchiol has effects similar to retinol, which are now widely used in cosmetics because it is proven to reduce the signs of aging and photo damage. However, bakuchiol has several significant advantages compared with retinol, primarily a good safety profile, which means that the products containing it, although equally effective, show far fewer side effects. It is of no less importance that bakuhiol can be used during the day due to its photostability. It is interesting that the bakuchiol is also a good stabilizer of retinol, which can help to efficiently reduce oxidative stress, which is achieved when retinol is combined with bakuchiol and used in higher concentrations than physiological.

CREATINE

Today it is considered that the adverse external factors and the natural process of aging are results of reduced skin energy reserves which are necessary for its reparation and revitalization. To improve the appearance of skin damaged by various environmental factors (air pollution, sunlight, etc.), production of collagen is activated in the cells. However, for the formation of collagen a great energy is required, and over the years the cells lose their energy reserves. This loss of energy reserves is probably one of the main mechanisms responsible for the formation of wrinkles, especially in the areas exposed to sunlight.

The use of creatine in cosmetic products is based on this principle because it serves as a depot of energy which aging skin needs. The creatine has been shown to be an effective active ingredient in products for local treatment of skin, which not only slows down the changes caused by aging, but leads to skin regeneration, “fixing” the damages that were previously created and partially “sweeping” the signs of the aging skin.

EXTRACT OF SALMON EGGS – CAVIAR

Caviar extract is composed of various fatty acids, amino acids, proteins, vitamins and minerals as well as a considerable amount of DNA and RNA (genetic material) that beneficially affect the health of the skin, improves the characteristics of the aging skin. Each of these elements directly produce a beneficial effect on the skin or helps the other ingredients from the preparation to get to areas of the skin where exert their effects. It is important to note that the efficiency of caviar depends on both the combination of substances contained and of the concentration of caviar in the formulation of cosmetic product and the length of its application. Given that the cosmetic products with caviar are one of the most expensive on the market, it is important to assess value for money i.e. take into account the minimum concentration in the product that may exhibit the desired effects.

Besides the well-known anti-aging ingredients, vitamin A, the extract of caviar contains free amino acids that are involved in processes important for maintaining optimal structure and elasticity of the extracellular matrix of the skin. The extract is also a source of zinc and copper, which have shown to facilitate the elasticity of the skin. The efficiency of the extract is also transmitted through a number of antioxidants (which reduce the level of free radicals responsible for aging and wrinkles), such as astaxanthin, vitelogelin, vitamin E and ω3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid. Astaxanthin has proven to be significant in improving skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles.It is believed that these antioxidants reduce and prevent depigmentation, increase skin luminosity and redness of the face, which are important properties for application in facial cosmetology.

Thus, today it is scientifically proven that a treatment with salmon egg extract significantly improves all tested indicators of skin appearance: wrinkles, pigmentation, redness, complexion radiance and hydration and leads to an overall improvement of skin appearance, without any adverse effects in terms of sensitization or irritation.

COMPLEX OF ACTIVE SUBSTANCES FROM NATURAL SOURCES: from the Dead Sea and the Himalayas

In a similar way as the extract of caviar, creams with a complex of active substances originating from the Dead Sea and the Himalayas, showed that the synergistic effect of the combination of different substances in small concentrations is a successful strategy in cosmetology.

Why there is a need for this formulation?

The facial skin is the area that is most exposed to UVB spectrum of solar radiation. Recent studies show that creams for sun protection only partially protect skin against long-term harmful effects of UV rays and it was considered that a strategy for long-term UV protection cannot be based only on developing anti UV products, but primarily on the weakening of various harmful signal and inflammatory pathways, which are naturally induced when the skin is exposed to UV rays. This antioxidant protection, which does not include the anti UV preparations, could be achieved using enzymes, vitamins and various natural components.

The solution to this problem is found in the very nature. For a long time the scholars have been familiar with the fact that plant organisms (such as lichens) from extreme climate zones generate different, so-called secondary metabolites to adapt to the stress in extreme conditions and thus ensure their survival. Therefore, it is assumed that the application of some of these secondary metabolites (extracted from lichens) in the local treatments could help protect the skin from UV radiation. The use of substances that have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect on the skin’s surface, may reduce the risk of photo-damage of the skin.

Starting from this hypothesis, the products for facial treatment containing a unique combination of natural active ingredients and originating from two completely different geographical altitudes: The Dead Sea (the lowest point on earth) and the mountains of the Himalayas, the highest point on Earth. This complex of active substances from natural sources from the Dead Sea and the Himalayas showed a strong antioxidant activity which helps the skin to fight against UV stress to reduce photo damage. A significant reduction in wrinkle depth and increase in skin hydration have been achieved by this extract, improving the appearance of the skin of volunteers who participated in the studies.

STEM CELLS

Stem cells have the ability to regenerate skin and tissue regeneration and are found in all three layers of the skin. These cells constantly renew epidermis, from the inner to the outer layer of skin. With aging the rate of skin cell renewal decreases resulting in thinning of the skin, dryness, pallor of the skin, wrinkles, reduced elasticity.

Research in the field of stem cells are very important today and the biggest cosmetics companies have the development centers focused on this field, due to the potential benefits of slowing the aging process and modulation of cell activity. Plants also have stem cells which are, in contrast to the animal – or totipotent stem cells, have the ability to regenerate a whole plant. Extract of apple stem cells is one of the first plant stem cell extracts that appeared on the market and is used in creams for reducing premature signs of aging, and later in the anti-aging creams for mature age.

The results of surveys carried out show that its use is effective in protecting human stem cells (stimulation of proliferation, protection from the harmful effects of UV rays on the cells, as well as maintaining the vitality of the old stem cells), reducing the depth of wrinkles and other signs of skin aging.

Finally, to conclude, we note that the cosmetic industry is not lagging behind in offer and modern formulation of cosmetic products to the end users. In any case, researchers, manufacturers and consumers will continue to strive for the ideal of the complete anti-aging concept which is identified by the author of these lines in the words of famed British anthropologist Ashley Montagu (1905-1999) that “The idea is to die young as late as possible “.

Postcard from Paris – In Cosmetics 2013

I am almost sure that the majority of experts in the domain of cosmetology will approve me that this year traditional In cosmetics 2013 Paris was not at all remained in the shadow of this beautiful city. Not only it achieved maximal number of visitors in its 23-year history (approx. 30% higher then last year held in Barcelona), but with its innovations and in the same time simplicity it completely fulfilled all my expectations.

The fact which was particularly interesting, primarily for our customers, is the fact that we at last removed long-term myths. Cosmetic industry acknowledged that in the perspective, neither preparation will have the power of „face lifting “ and hence all examinations in this domain will be directed to improvement of sensory characteristics of the preparation and the experience of the customer itself. Power of scent,, happiness and satisfaction of the customer during application will be absolute priority. „Don’t forget endorphin!“- said Emmanuelle Bassmann in her lecture dedicate to the beauty trends 2020, aiming to the fact that the most potent happiness hormone is just in our organism and cosmetologists have the job to use their new preparations to support its natural synthesis. Hence, she announced that entire concept in the perspective will be aimed to the fact that only happy and satisfied person can have beautiful and healthy skin.

Considering sensory characteristics, you can suppose that large challenge for Beauty concept 2020 will be scent compositions. How to satisfy our customer? What is in the consciousness of and what in the sub-consciousness of the customer during selection of the scent of cosmetic preparation for himself? Why certain customers after consummation of new preparation with scent which suits them again choose to buy old, socially acceptable one?

As expected, large number of lectures was dedicated to actual Decree EU 1223/2009 which completely comes into force on July 11th this year and according to which protection of the customers is brought to the highest possible level. However, contrary to our expectations, this domain was pretty much far from monotonous, since the lecturers opened entire new dimension in the approach and aspect of communication with the customers.

This time also men were not forgotten. Some of the lecturers used to be pioneers and involved themselves into the research of masculine customer’s wishes. Namely, it is defined that men use preparations with stronger and sophisticated scent aspects because they think their ladies expect them to smell just like that. However, even this time ladies decided, thus according to the Beauty concept 2020 for men there will be reserved smoother variants, unisex scent concepts like jasmine, tangerine, olive etc. Since the opinion is abandoned that strong perfume is the symbol of manhood, hence scent composition is far exceeded the role of only one of the ingredients of the preparation recipe. Today, it is known that it may have even healing features, hence long time ago approved power of aromatherapy and, above all, scent of jasmine which also improves our All Me preparations, today has its scientific confirmation.

Not only had the view from the second floor of the Eifel tower made me feel so happy. By summarizing impressions from In Cosmetics, as manufacturer I feel the proud and as customer I feel satisfaction because I am sure that we in “All Me” preparations succeeded to adjust traditional recipes to the newest trends and to counteract with the achieved quality to the biggest companies worldwide.